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The
Parish of Lairg and Gruids
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Various
theories exist as to the meaning of the name LAIRG – In Gaelic
Luirg, Learg – sloping face of a hill or sloping place exposed
to sun, sea or loch. In the 13th century Lairg was spelt LARG.
By the 17th century there were two recorded settlements, Wester
Lairg and Easter Lairg, situated on the hill to the south east
of Loch Shin. The local area has been settled for many centuries –
being
the natural meeting place and gateway to the remote corner
of Scotland’s mainland. Latterly cattle and sheep were driven
to market from the north and west of the county.
See
History of Lairg by Lesley Ketteringham
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The
Clearances
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The
parish, however, has suffered harsh times, being one of the first
in the county to suffer
from the notorious Highland Clearances’, whereby the crofters
were evicted to make way for Cheviot sheep. This occurred around
1807, leaving empty glens where once there were thriving townships.
The remains of some of these dwellings may still be seen on the surrounding
moorlands.
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Village/Outlook
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At
one time the majority of the inhabitants in the area resided on the
high moorlands and straths, with the children of tenanting shepherds
walking miles to school over rugged hill paths, but gradually these
dwellings have been vacated in favour of a move down to the more
accessible present village on the southern shores of the loch. This
developed from around 1812.
In Lairg today you can still feel the past, that quiet remoteness from the bustle
of modern civilisation, savour clean air, wild distant landscapes towards majestic
mountains, spectacular sunsets and real Highland hospitality.
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Land
Reclamation
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Towards
the end of the 19th century the situation improved. The far north
railway line was built giving Lairg a link with the south and shortly
after that the Duke of Sutherland invested in a large agricultural
scheme in Shinness, a few miles to the north of Lairg. Nearly 2,000
acres of land were drained and ploughed, using 14 steam engines,
a huge plough called the Duke’s Toothpick and hundreds of men.
Lime for the fields was quarried on the far side of the Aird peninsula
and the remains of the huge lime kilns may still be seen today, by
walking from West Shinness or from the water with access by boat.
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Industrial
Development
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In
1919 Sir William Edgar Horne bought Lairg Estate from the Duke
of Sutherland and he proved to be a very generous benefactor who
saw potential for agricultural and industrial development in the
area and was able to finance it. Through his efforts Lairg was
one of the first Highland villages to receive electricity in 1924,
from a diesel generator in the vicinity of Laundry Road. Amongst
his achievements he started a brickworks at the station, an electric
laundry, sawmill, a modern dairy at Dalchork – and he instigated
a scheme for crofters to build silo towers for winter feeding,
many of which are still visible. He also financed the construction
of the Post Office, the block of shops opposite and various other
buildings in the Main Street. He died in 1941 but his home at Lairg
Lodge is clearly visible, dominating the skyline on the hillside
above the dam, as you approach the village from the south.
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The
Dam
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Once
again Lairg became noted for electricity production when the farthest
north dam and hydro power station was built on Loch Shin between
1954-58. The level of the loch was raised by 11 metres and generation
began in 1959.
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Ferrycroft
Countryside Visitor Centre
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The
purpose-built centre guides the visitor through the changes in land
use in the area from the ice age to the present day. Audio visual
and other display designed to appeal to all ages illustrate woodland
history, conservation and wildlife also the Shin Hydro Electric scheme.
There is also a TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE with a Coffee Shop and
Internet Access, supplying further information and help to Visitors.
In the grounds of the centre there is a picnic and children’s
play area. Forest walks and archaeological trails.
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Shin
Falls
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Situated
on River Shin (south of Lairg B864) this well known salmon leap,
has display boards telling the life cycle of the Atlantic Salmon.
There is also Forest walks and picnic areas and the Falls of Shin
Visitor Centre with Restaurant and Shop. Ample parking
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Archaeology
Trail
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Cairns
or stone burial tombs built by New Stone Age farmers who are believed
to have settled in the Northern Highlands 5-6,000 years ago, provide
the earliest evidence of habitation in Lairg. Recent excavations,
prior to road rebuilding in the Achinduich area, have confirmed this.
Examples of chambered tombs can be seen at Achany (GR NC 571019)
and on the Ord Summit (GR NC 573056 and 574055). The Ord North cairn
is 90ft in diameter and when it was excavated, two styles of Stone
Age pottery and evidence of cremation were revealed. There is now
an Archaeological Trail round the Ord, further details of which can
be obtained at the Countryside Centre.
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Wildlife
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There
can be no better place than Lairg for viewing the rare, beautiful
and unique wildlife of the Northern Highlands. Many of the plants
and animals so easily seen in this area are in fact scarce nationally.
Within half an hours drive from Lairg you could be sitting by one of the best
salmon rivers in Scotland, or identifying flowers on one of the most extensive
sand dune systems in the north. You could be exploring remnants of the once great
Caledonian Pine Forest or the vast openness of the Flow Country.
Base yourself in Lairg and the outstanding wildlife of the north becomes readily
accessible. Rarities such as black throated and red throated divers can often
be easily seen from the roads in the area. These regularly fish Little Loch Shin.
Mammals are more difficult to see although any walk in the hills will reveal
red deer to the observant. To see badgers and pine marten will require more in
the way of field craft but will reward the patient and the lucky!
The Highland council Ranger Service has a ranger based at the Ferrycroft Countryside
Centre. The ranger leads guided walks, often to see many of the species mentioned
above. A week of special wildlife watching activities is held throughout Caithness
and Sutherland in the last week in May. This event, entitled Wild Encounters,
is designed to give visitors a chance to see some of the very rarest birds and
animals in the area without causing them disturbance.
For details on all ranger activities phone 01549 402638
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